The Rock Fort of Bhuvanagiri

(Written for and published in USPeople, the USP employee newsletter in 2014)

At a distance of about 32 miles from the city of Hyderabad, atop a monolithic hill that looks like a huge granite elephant in repose; sits the rock fort of Bhuvanagiri, more popular by the name Bhongir.

Along with Mohammedazam Lahori and Pradeep Ganganala, two of my colleagues at USP India, I made a trip to this place sometime in the month of March.

Built in the 11th century by King Tribhuvanmalla Vikramaditya of the Western Chalukyan dynasty, the fort was named Bhuvanagiri after its founder. Along the course of its long history it passed through the hands of the Kakatiya dynasty, the Bahmani Sultanate and then fell to ruins after the decline of the Nizams of Hyderabad.

Apart from being a monument protected by the Archaeological Survey of India, the site currently serves as training grounds for rock climbing, bouldering and rappelling enthusiasts. 

The granite monolith forms the natural citadel for the fort.

The first thing that strikes a visitor, on entering the premises of the fort, is its incredible design and architecture. One cannot help but wonder about the enormous hard work it may have taken a thousand years back to build such a structure, especially since it is built on the face of solid granite.

The egg-like shape of the rock accounts for the inaccessibility of the fort from most of the sides. The two available approaches to this fort are guarded by huge rocks. With sturdy walls made of granite slabs, water filled moats, strategically placed artillery, this fort was designed to be impregnable from all sides.

Inside the fort, one can find underground chambers, trapdoors and all the mysterious elements of architecture typical to ancient forts. The granite rock has a good share of cracks and crevices for water to get collected. A long fissure in the huge monolith has been dammed up at a number of levels to form a series of water reservoirs. There was no dearth of water. That Bhongir fort had the capability to withstand any siege was very evident.

The crumbling ramparts, turrets, walls and arched doorways of the Bhuvanagiri fort.

The summit of this hill houses the erstwhile palace, now in ruins. Steps chiseled out on the face of the rock lead visitors to the top of the hill. Though it is a mere five hundred feet climb from the base, the glaring sun and the steep incline may test one’s endurance. The summit however, we found, was like a breezy porch, which soothes all weariness. 

Steps chiseled into the rock, leading to the top of the hill. The iron handrails are a modern addition for safety during the steep climb

From the top of the hill one gets a magnificent view of the surrounding plains. Since we were there in the dry season, the colors were relatively dull. But the countryside should be a treat for the eyes during the monsoons or shortly after, when the earth turns a darker brown and the plains below verdant with fresh vegetation.

The palace itself was a small one, survived by its walls and a partially collapsed roof. The crumbling structure had a mix of elements from both ancient Hindu and Muslim architecture, complete with inscriptions and carvings. The realization of the age and historical significance of the rundown building made me very contemplative. As I ran my fingers over its walls, I thought I heard the sighs of a thousand years of untold stories, a million characters from the bygone eras struggling to jump right out.

The silent ruin of the palace broods over the modern settlement below. 

Ancient artillery - Pradeep ready for takeoff as Azam “turns on the ignition” 

Having spent some time in the breezy shade of the ruins, we retraced our steps down the hill. We were tired from exertion and famished. The climb down was a quicker one, with the hot sun beating down from above and hunger tormenting us from within. Only a big serving of Hyderabadi Biryani and a jar of cola could rejuvenate us, we decided.

As we exited the fort, I turned back for a last look at the summit. The silent ruins looked out plaintively from above, as if sadly seeing off a near one. “I will be back in the monsoons,” I promised, “we are not done yet.”

Clockwise from bottom left: The narrow flight of steps leading to the entrance of the fort.

View of the surrounding plains from the top of the Bhongir fort.

Stone steps at the entry to the fort. It is amazing how these structures have survived the ravages of centuries.

The battered walls of the Bhongir palace are in need of serious restoration efforts.

From Left to Right – I, Mohammedazam Lahori, Pradeep Ganganala, on the roof of the Bhongir palace.